Introduction: Restoring an Antique Screwdriver
Today I will show you how I restored this antique C.D. Smith Co. Perfect 'Winged' Handle screwdriver (marketplace find). You might be wondering why would anyone want to restore a simple tool like this? For me, it all started with watching 'My mechanics' youtube channel. This fella does perfect restorations on handtools that are extremely satisfying to watch. I figured I would give it a try. 'My mechanics' goes for perfect restorations whereas my approach is to preserve some of the patina while making it entirely functional.
Check out the video attached and follow along with the directions below.
Supplies
Tools:
- vice
- punch
- ball peen hammer
- hack saw
- file
- belt sander
- sand blaster with bead blast media
- drill press
- countersink bit
- drill bit
- sand paper
- mitre saw
- table saw
- rust remover
- paper towel
- bench grinder with convolute wheel
- wire drill bit
- cordless drill
- torch
Material:
- wood for new handle
- boiled linseed oil
- brass pin
Step 1: Disassembly
Not much for disassembly. Only 5 parts in total.
- File off old rivets.
- Punch out the rivets.
Step 2: Restore Steel Body
- Soak screwdriver in rust remover for 24 hrs.
- Remove any remaining rust with wire drill bit.
- Remove some of the pitting with a convolute wheel, being careful not to take off too much material.
- Straighten out screwdriver tip with round steel tube. Pry on tip until it is straight.
- File the blade of the screw driver to flatten it.
- Harden blade by torching until it just reaches a cherry red(~800 degrees Celsius). Immediately dip into oil for quenching. After a thorough cleaning place into an oven @ 160 degrees Celsius for 1 hr to temper. The blade is now hardened.
- Bead blast body for a nice matte finish.
Step 3: Make New Wooden Handle
Select a piece of wood. I decided to use this piece of figured wood that I had sitting in my garage for years. No clue of the species. If anyone knows, please leave a comment. I believe the most common type of wood for this application would be hickory or beechwood.
- Cut wood with a mitre saw.
- Cut to proper depth using a table saw.
- Trace handle shape using the old scales.
- Shape the profile with a belt sander. Take time to ensure proper fitment.
- Before final shaping, the holes need to be drilled. Drill holes into one side of the handle utilizing the existing holes on the steel body as a guide. Once first set of holes are drilled, install the other wood piece. Now drill out the remaining holes utilizing the holes previously drilled as a guide.
- Apply a chamfered edge to the holes with a countersink bit (allows for the peened pins to hold the wood scales into place).
Step 4: Assembly
- Peen the one end of the brass pin.
- Cut brass pins to length.
- Grease inside surface of screwdriver to prevent corrosion.
- Install the wood onto the body and insert brass pin.
- Begin peening the other side of the brass pin. Alternate peening both sides until snug.
- File brass pin to match the profile of the wood. Sand smooth.
- Coat entire screwdriver with boiled linseed oil and wipe clean.
Project complete!
Thanks for following along. Check out my youtube for more interesting projects and don't forget to subscribe.
10 Comments
10 months ago
Very nice! I haven't seen the winged design before. I'm a somewhat traditional hand tool woodworker and also a tinkerer, so I've seen quite a few old tools, but not that type before. I'll be looking for it now :^)
10 months ago
Nice write-up, great result. I would suggest rather than grease under the scales to prevent rust, use lanolin. Lanolin absolutely prevents rust.
Reply 10 months ago
Thank you! I will give lanolin a try.
10 months ago on Step 4
Nice job!. What type of oil did you use to quench the tip of the screwdriver when you were hardening it?
Best Answer 10 months ago
The type of oil doesn't matter much. It's not about the steel absorbing some "nutrients" from the oil, it's about cooling the steel down quite quickly, but not as quickly as water quenching does. Actually, plain carbon steel, which many of these old tools were made of, was commonly water quenched, but oil quenching generally works well enough and is a bit safer (water quenching can result in cracks or deformation). Use any high smoke point oil (e.g. oils used for deep frying) or simple motor oil in a metal container. The oil might catch fire (probably not when hardening just a screwdriver's tip), just be prepared to cover the container with a lid.
10 months ago
Nice and worthwhile restoration!
I'm pretty sure that you can't find a quality, practical screwdriver design like that anymore.
Those "thumb wings" can be so darn handy.
Well done/
Tip 10 months ago
Beautiful! The old hand tools are fabulous finds and a joy to work with.
10 months ago on Introduction
Your efforts have rewarded you with a thing of beauty! Nice! Your stock looks like a gorgeous piece of walnut. Did you notice the aroma when you cut into it?
Reply 10 months ago
Thank you! I think I solved the mystery. I remembered the wood was given to me by my uncle. Gave him a ring and he told me it was from Costa Rica. A Google search later and I'm convinced it's the coco bolo hard wood species. Orange red color with black striping.
Reply 10 months ago
The hardwood species really do have the best colors, don't they?